Bathroom Cabinet   Shower Room   Fit the bath panels according to the manufacturer's instructions (3). Use a fine-toothed saw to shape the panels around pipes or to fit the skirting. If you are constructing your own bath panel, make it easy to remove, so that it provides simple access to plumbing and some useful long-term storage. Once the walls have been tiled (4), waterproof the joint around the rim of the bath with silicone sealant. After using an acrylic bath, clean it while it is still warm, using soapy water. Then wipe it dry. Do not use organic solvents or abrasive cleaners. 5 - Fitting a pedestal wash basin Disconnect the supply pipes from the old taps, using a cranked spanner to reach behind the basin. If this proves difficult, cut the pipes at a convenient level for connecting with the new flexible tap connectors. Unscrew the old basin fixings and lift clear. Remove supporting brackets from the wall or unscrew the pedestal base from the floor. Place the new basin on its pedestal base and position it against the wall. Mark the fixing points on the wall and floor.
Drill and fit wall plugs on the marks (5). Just drill pilot holes for the screws when fixing to a wooden floor. Make any alterations to the 15mm (1/2in) supply pipes so they will be neatly concealed by the pedestal. Fit miniature in-line isolating valves for future servicing. Fit new taps and a waste outlet in the basin. Check that the tap spouts are correctly aligned. Do not over-tighten the back nuts. Fit flexible connection pipes to the tap tails. Then fit a 32mm (1.25in) waste trap to the waste outlet. When fitting taps to a rim made from a thin material (such as pressed steel), use a 'top-hat' spacer fitting placed under the back nut (6). Place the basin on its pedestal and fix it in place with brass screws. Connect the trap to the existing 32mm (1.25in) wastepipe. If a new waste pipe is required in a different position, drill a clearance hole through the wall with a masonry core drill, and install a new pipe run (see next section). Connect the flexible tap connectors to the appropriate hot and cold supplies. Follow the manufacturer's instructions, as some taps require check valves to be fitted. Turn on the water supply to test the installation. Unless you are experienced with electrical installations, ask an electrician to fit supplementary bonding to all metal fittings and pipework.
6 - Supply pipes and wastepipes Baths are fitted with 22mm (3/4in) taps and supply pipes; basins with 12mm (1/2in) taps and pipes. Monobloc mixer taps usually have 10mm (3/8in) tails, and a reducer is needed when connecting them to standard pipework. You can use copper supply pipes, connected with soldered or compression joints, or plastic pipes that are usually connected with push-fit joints. Adapter couplings are available to join pipes of different materials and sizes. Always follow tap manufacturers' instructions when connecting supply pipes, as some tap installations require check valves to be fitted. Plastic pipe is used for wastes: 40mm (1.5in) pipe for baths; 32mm (1.25in) for washbasins; and 21mm (3/4in) for overflows. Solvent-welded joints, push-fit connectors or compression joints are used to join plastic wastepipes. Unless you are connecting to existing wastepipes, new bath and basin wastes should be connected to a soil-stack with boss fittings (7). If a trap cannot be removed to provide access to the wastepipe, include a rodding- eye fitting so that any blockages can be cleared (8). For more information,please visit  http://www.bossgoo.com