FIT A BATH AND WASH BASIN A good knowledge of plumbing techniques and some understanding of building construction would be an advantage. Be careful not to strain yourself whilst manoeuvring the appliances. Ensure that all metal pipes and fittings are cross- bonded with 6mm squared sheathed earthing wire. Protective goggles, gloves and ear defenders may be needed for some operations. Changing your bath and washbasin gives you the ideal opportunity to re-style your whole bathroom. Plan your new installation thoroughly. If you only have one bathroom in the house, the work must be carried out efficiently to minimise the time that the amenities are unavailable. If you have any concerns, ask professionals to carry out the work. The methods described here refer to the separate removal and installation of each fitting. However, in practice it is more convenient to strip out the room first, then carry out the new installation. 2 - Preparing the room Clear the room of all storage units and fixtures, such as towel rails and blinds. If the bath has a shower screen, remove it. Take up carpeting, but leave sheet vinyl in place until all the fittings have been removed. If you plan to install new lighting or an extractor fan, make the alterations at this stage. The bath and basin are connected to the plumbing by water- supply pipes and wastepipes. These pipes must be disconnected before the fittings can be removed. First shut off the hot and cold supply. If your house has old lead pipes, make the most of this opportunity and ask a plumber to replace them with copper or plastic plumbing. 3 - Removing the old bath Remove the bath panels to reveal the plumbing. Open the taps to drain them, then disconnect the supply pipes. Place a shallow bowl under the bath trap to catch the water, then disconnect the wastepipe. If the connectors cannot be unscrewed, saw through the
pipes. Also, cut through the old bath overflow. If the bath has been sealed against the wall with flexible sealant, cut through this with a craft knife. Pull the bath out from the walls. If the bath has adjustable feet, it may help to lower these first. Unless a heavy cast-iron bath is worth salvaging, it is easier to move it by first breaking it up into manageable pieces. Cover the bath with an old blanket and strike it with a club hammer. Protective goggles, gloves and ear defenders should be worn during this operation. Once the bath has been removed, extract the old overflow pipe from the wall and repair the hole with mortar and plaster. Also, remove old wall tiles and prepare the walls for retiling. When applying new wall tiles, measure out and cut a groove in the plaster to inset the rim of the bath. This ensures a good waterproof joint. 4 - Fitting the new bath Before fixing a new bath or its panels, remove the protective covering and check thoroughly for damage or colour faults. Any claims made after the bath is fitted will not be accepted by the manufacturer. To add stiffness, most moulded plastic baths have a baseboard bonded underneath and a wooden frame bonded beneath the rim. A cradle kit is usually supplied for self assembly. Following the manufacturer's instructions, fit the cradle legs to the frame and baseboard. Also fit the centre support leg, if supplied (1).
Attach the wall-fixing brackets to the underside of the rim- support frame. Fit hand grip(s) to the rim if supplied. Set the bath upright and fit individual hot and cold taps or a mixer-tap set. Attach flexible connecting pipes to the tap tails - this allows for any misalignment when you connect up with the supply pipes. Fit the overflow outlet and waste outlet into the bath. Connect them with a combined waste- and-overflow unit that incorporates a deep-seal trap (2). Place the bath in the required position and adjust the screw feet to set the height and level of the rim so that it can accommodate the side panels. When everything is in place, screw the brackets to the wall and the feet to the floor. Connect the supply and wastepipes (see below).For more information,please visit  http://www.bossgoo.com